Wednesday, 6 March 2013

The New Hat by Alan Scott

Once again, I felt drawn towards this very useful SVG Shadow Box set of electronic dies that I have bought. I have been lucky enough to buy some stamps from that WONDERFUL stamp designer Lynne Perrella that are produced by PaperArtsy. This time I wanted to do an inspired by the 'Old Masters' project and a combination of these stamps let me build up an image that I could then colour in. 

Lynne Perrella Stamp Collections LPC001, LPC005 & LPC012
Stampers Anonymous Slight Alterations CMS060 & Spills & Splatters CMS028
Graphic 45 Stamp Set - Ladies Diary 1
IndioBlu Mega Flakes
- Brighton Pier
Sakura Quickie Glue Pen
Archival Ink - Jet Black
Bronze & Gold Craft Acrylic Paint
Ranger Inkssentials Glue and Seal - Gloss
Aleene's Clear Gel Tacky Glue
Claudine Hellmuth Studio Black Gesso
Aqua-Flo Brush Set
Selection of Water Colour Pencils
Tim Holtz Distress Inks - Walnut Stain & Black Soot
Memento Ink Pad - Gray Flannel

Cricut Baby Cutting Machine plus Ornamental Iron 1 Cassette
Heat Gun
Craft Mat
Scrap White Paper
Good White Stamping Card
LOW TACK Masking Tape
Sharp Tipped Scissors, Craft Knife, Soft Pencil and Eraser, Ruler, Fiskars Stamping Block, Cutting Mat
Gold Rub and Buff
Card Candi (any colour)


Taking my main focal image, I mounted it onto my stamping press. I did this as the image had to be built up in a certain area that the 5 x 7 inch frame gave. So this stamping aid allowed me to build up the scene knowing I was in that area and I could stamp right where I wanted.

Here we have our focal image stamped. As you can see, I have tried to stamp the image within the area that the 5 x 7 inch frame allowed us to use. I double-checked that
the image fitted in the area and the space around was what I wanted. Using an eraser,
I removed the original pencil marks. By placing the frame back onto the card, I could
then re-mark and make sure that whatever I stamped onto the surface, was placed
where I wanted it to be. 

I re-inked the stamp and stamped it again onto copy paper. This was then cut out as close to the stamped edge as I could get. For the intricate areas, I used my craft knife. U
sing a very low tack tape, I secured the photocopy onto the main stamped image. D
oing this meant that what ever I decided to stamp onto the surface, the main figure wouldn't be ruined. If you can look closely you can see where I over stamped the buildings for the next layer.

Here is the background layer ready to be inked. I find that when I'm doing multi layered projects this, Fiskars stamping aid does help with the positioning. As it's on foam feet, even slight adjustments can be made mid stamping if you're careful. This stamping block does come in 2 sizes and both are invaluable to my crafting. The background was double stamped. and if you enlarge the photo, you will be able to see that it has a fuzzy edges. I wanted to do this so that the background was thrown out of focus and looked more in the distance.
When we use paper masks, we are not going to get the perfect edge. I have included this photo so that you can see what I mean and how it can be amended after we had finished all our stamping.

Take a fine pointed Black Waterproof Marker and build up the edges by making small dots. You don't have to be perfect and colour the back ground image. I find that following the design of the stamp will lead you into how you can fill in those white areas. If you enlarge this photo, you will be able to see closely what I mean.You can also see that the image has been built up within the confines of the frame used for this project. I decided to use water colour pencils for this project. 

Start laying down your chosen colour. Using a water colour brush, we can manipulate and colour in where we want. Also by adding another layer of the same colour, it is possible to easily to build up depth. The background needed something extra, so I decided to use some Mega Flakes to give some detail. I used a Sakura Pen, as it lets you lay down even the smallest of areas when using these flakes. So much so, I was even able to place golden highlights onto the shell handbag. To add more interest to the background, I placed the mask I used for the figure, back onto my stamped image and using the distressing stamps, I stamped first onto the scrap paper, pressing quite hard so that most of the ink was removed and then I stamped onto the background. I was after an aged look and i did not want it to look as if it was a fresh stamped image.

Using my Cricut, I found a nelectronic image that fitted into my thinking of an aged Victorian frame. I used a heavy distressed card stock (linen in feel), as this would give extra definition and feel after it had been painted. If you look closely, you will be able to see that I have secured the frame onto the shadow frame. This saves a lot of time when it comes to painting and finishing the completed project. As I was going to over paint this, I used black Gesso.

The next few photographs are all about the same thing but I wanted to include them so you can get a closer look at what I mean. When I started to paint the frame, I built up layers of paint quite thickly. Leaving it it dry for a few minutes, I then took a heat gun and forced dried the paint. By doing this, the paint started to 'bubble up and this gave even more texture. It also gives the feeling of the 'faux' metal being pitted and flaked. If you look you can see the small bubbles that occured due to the heat onto the paint layer. Be very careful, as it's very easy to burn the paint and then ruin your effect.
All that's left to do now, is take the gold Rub and Buff and place that onto the frame. Take your Card Candi and use this cream on them too. It will change their colour but it's best to try to keep to a similar colour hue.
Now for the final part - securing the back onto the frame. First take some card and using the black Gesso, give it a layer of colour. This will become the back of your frame. Then take the stamped image and secure that onto the dried painted card, uncoated side up. As it's been treated with several techniques it could be a little warped, so use a strong clear glue to secure onto the card and then place some Teflon or greaseproof paper on to the top and lay a few books on top of that. Let this 'set' or 'cure' for a few hours or even overnight. 
You should have a flat piece of art work to then secure onto the back of your frame. Using a ruler, add an outer edge to the face of the image and then using the eraser, carefully remove the pencil marks from the inside. What you're after is to have to lines that will let you cut it out and fit onto the frame matching the outer edge and making it look 'flush'. 
Again for the final stage on the construction, you use a good strong clear glue, as this will give you time to manipulate the back into place and then when you're happy, lay it down and place a few 'lighter books' onto the front. This will help the back adhere to the frame and become a tight bond. 
The last thing is to do is give the back a coat of the Glue and Seal. This will protect the back and also give it an extra layer to strengthen the frame. If you wanted to, you can give the whole frame a coat. However if you were thinking about doing it, I would do it before the back is secured into place.
I wanted to make a project that took inspiration from the Old Master's, when Women and Men thought nothing of keeping a bird and a nest in their wigs.... where 'Gentle Folk' had to be sewn into their clothing for the day and dare not sneeze! lol


  1. That frame meakes me long for an electronic die cutter. A fab piece, Alan.

  2. Wow! Amazing creation Alan and will have to investigate the stamp press, looks really useful.
    Fliss x


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